每到年關(guān)，家家戶戶的廚房里都飄著紅燒牛肉的香氣，但能把這道"硬菜"做得酥而不柴、濃而不膩的卻不多。去年在一位川菜老師傅那里偷師到的秘訣，讓我做的紅燒牛肉從此成了年夜飯桌上的"臺(tái)柱子"。

一、選肉是成功的第一步

牛腩肉才是紅燒牛肉的靈魂，肥瘦相間的層次感是其他部位無(wú)法替代的。記得第一次做時(shí)買了純瘦的牛腿肉，結(jié)果燉出來(lái)柴得像木屑。老師傅教我挑肉要選"三花"——脂肪花紋像大理石紋路、肉色鮮紅有光澤、摸起來(lái)微微粘手的才是好肉。

有個(gè)冷知識(shí)：帶點(diǎn)筋膜的肉塊反而更香，燉煮后膠質(zhì)會(huì)讓湯汁更濃稠。現(xiàn)在我去市場(chǎng)都讓攤主留"坑腩"，就是靠近牛肋排那塊帶軟骨的肉，煮到軟骨能化在嘴里才叫絕。

二、預(yù)處理決定成敗

冷水浸泡2小時(shí)：很多人省略這步直接焯水，其實(shí)血水沒(méi)泡干凈怎么焯都有腥味。我習(xí)慣睡前把肉泡上放冰箱，早起換兩次水，肉色會(huì)變得粉嫩透亮。

擦干再下鍋：這個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)90%的人會(huì)忽略。有次偷懶沒(méi)擦干水，結(jié)果煎肉時(shí)油花四濺，廚房像放鞭炮�，F(xiàn)在都用廚房紙吸到完全干燥，煎出來(lái)的"美拉德反應(yīng)"才到位。

大塊煎制：切成麻將牌大小的塊，四面煎到焦黃鎖住肉汁。去年在內(nèi)蒙古學(xué)到個(gè)妙招——用羊油代替植物油來(lái)煎，香氣能提升兩個(gè)檔次。

三、調(diào)味有玄機(jī)

老師傅的調(diào)料罐里永遠(yuǎn)有三樣秘密武器：陳皮、山奈和醪糟。陳皮去膩，山奈增香，醪糟代替料酒能讓肉質(zhì)更松軟。比例也有講究：1公斤肉配1塊陳皮、3片山奈、2勺醪糟，這個(gè)配方我用了五年從沒(méi)失手過(guò)。

糖色是另一個(gè)關(guān)鍵。新手建議用冰糖+油的炒法，小火慢熬到琥珀色就關(guān)火。有次我接電話忘了看鍋，結(jié)果熬出中藥般的苦味，整鍋肉都?xì)Я恕，F(xiàn)在都用計(jì)時(shí)器，90秒是黃金時(shí)間。

四、火候是終極奧義

冷水下肉，小火慢燉是鐵律。水開(kāi)后要撇三次浮沫：第一次是血沫，第二次是脂肪沫，第三次是蛋白質(zhì)沫。秘訣是燉煮時(shí)分三個(gè)階段：

前40分鐘不蓋蓋，讓腥味揮發(fā)

中間1小時(shí)蓋蓋小火，讓肉質(zhì)軟化

最后20分鐘開(kāi)蓋收汁，讓味道濃縮

高壓鍋雖然快，但味道差很多。有次趕時(shí)間用高壓鍋壓了30分鐘，肉是爛了，但香味全跑沒(méi)了�，F(xiàn)在寧愿早起兩小時(shí)用砂鍋慢慢煨，滿屋的香氣才是年味。

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https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/104
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/104
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/104
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/107
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/95
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/104
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/104
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/104
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/94
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/103
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/103
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/104
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/102
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/105
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/94
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/104
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/103
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/103
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/94
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/106
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/103
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/92
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/103
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/103
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/93
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/103
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/103
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/102
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/103
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/102
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/101
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/104
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/93
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/103
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/102
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/102
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/93
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/105
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/102
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/91
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/102
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/92
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/102
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/102
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/102
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/101
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/102
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/100
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/101
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/103
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/92
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/102
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/101
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/101
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/92
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/104
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/101
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/101
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/91
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/101
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/101
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/101
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/101
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/100
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/90
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/100
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/99
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/91
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/102
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/101
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/100
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/100
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/103
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/91
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/100
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/90
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/100
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/100
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/100
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/99
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/99
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/100
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/90
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/100
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/101
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/99
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/89
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/100
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/99
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/98
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/102
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/90
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/99
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/89
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/99
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/99
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/98
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/89
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/100
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/99
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/98
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/98
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/99
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/99
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/88
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/99
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/98
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/101
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/89
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/97
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/98
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/98
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/88
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/97
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/88
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/99
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/98
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/98
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/97
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/98
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/97
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/98
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/100
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/87
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/98
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/97
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/96
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/87
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/88
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/97
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/87
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/98
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/97
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/96
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/96
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/97
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/97
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/96
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/97
https://github.com/lilmansoc/0vwvj/issues/97
https://github.com/soluticarro8/ly0aj/issues/99
https://github.com/ftvesean/omw4o/issues/97
https://github.com/tegopdesset/13oxa/issues/86
https://github.com/lisankiemclug/254zu/issues/96
https://github.com/cort01here/u5apy/issues/86
https://github.com/heiganusam/iswpz/issues/95
https://github.com/hongweiskip/rj5bn/issues/96
https://github.com/kardisia/8wjuc/issues/86
https://github.com/abehonav115/b5fs1/issues/96
https://github.com/ovilanglada/nkt7j/issues/97
https://github.com/eeeyten/be99j/issues/95
https://github.com/bamiliba/c7wof/issues/95
https://github.com/keansshi/f9nvz/issues/96
https://github.com/marieg100/qu13g/issues/87
https://github.com/ksandkomou/slvxu/issues/95
https://github.com/magenorsennimmis/ebopv/issues/96
https://github.com/blocdpox/l45m4/issues/96

五、配菜的畫(huà)龍點(diǎn)睛

白蘿卜是經(jīng)典搭配，但有個(gè)小心機(jī)：蘿卜要晚一小時(shí)下鍋，否則會(huì)燉化。加幾顆新鮮山楂，果酸能讓肉質(zhì)更酥爛。

土豆愛(ài)好者注意了！放土豆前要用油煎到表面結(jié)殼，這樣燉煮時(shí)才不會(huì)散。我外婆的秘方是加兩勺燉肉的湯先把土豆?fàn)F半熟，再入鍋同煮，每塊土豆都能保持完整。

好食材加耐心，家常菜也能成宴客硬菜。今年年夜飯，不如就用這鍋紅燒牛肉，燉出一屋子的幸福滋味。